Last updated 1st March, 2018
Constructive criticism is appreciated. I'd appreciate tips on pricing (or other things to include/consider) and if your argument is sound, I'll adjust the value with acknowledgement.

Introduction
I wish there was a consolidated thread as a guideline for ROUGHLY what X-metals that are overall rated 9/10 without box shipped CONUSA relative to an equivalent pair of normal Juliets are worth from the perspective of those who have been around long enough to know (taking into account trends and recent falls in prices).

So I decided to TRY to put one together to help people who are just starting out in the Oakley collecting game, and who, like me, really have no idea about what things are worth. If you don't find this information helpful because you've been around for ages and intuitively know what something is worth, then I'm jealous of you. Please share your thoughts here so we can all benefit.

You may even feel that this thread may “create even more drama for discussion and debate” or that it is “asinine”.

@kronin323 makes the cynical, but astute observation that x-metal pricing is the product of "mutually agreed on delusions"!! I completely agree with him, after all the real cost of any x-metal's sum of parts is possibly $3 tops! But what are those "mutually agreed on delusions"?

@X-Metal Beast describes the dynamic dance between buyer and seller. Well worth the read here!

@MJLSr described it mathematically this way -> Value = [(demand/preference)*subjectivity].

@Medusa50 has a different (and absolutely hilarious) post on paying for Oakleys here. His paragraph is well worth the read, even if it's too long to post here, but to summarise...pay what you have to, regardless of the cost or expense to those you hold dear!!! It's just gold. Pure gold.

I wish this guide was here when I started, so I knew I wasn’t getting totally ripped off (as did happen) or so that I didn’t insult a seller (with my stupidly low and insulting offers) or get mocked for posting unreasonable pricing for stuff.

I did this with the help of quite few others (as I am not a super experienced collector). Thank you for the help.

For those of you who are interested in the history of Oakley trading here at OF, check out @kronin323 's widely acclaimed and brilliantly explained philosophical reflection on how the market evolved and cane to be (incidentally, it also explains many of the comments in this thread!!)

Disclaimer:-
There are many other variables that come into the equation (overall trends, how much you want it, how many were produced (rare frogskin list), forced firesales, fickle colour-way preferences, availability in your part of the world, box and coin, presence of unique microfibre, serials/no serial, and even climactic seasons)! There will be ALWAYS be both extreme prices as well as absolute bargains to be had. Check this one out! This guideline is NOT “prescriptive”. There will be differences in pricing, based on how YOU value an item. "Beauty is in the eye of the Beholder". Arguably, this is the MOST important determination of the value of a pair of X-metals, because X-metals, more than anything are purchases of the “heart” and not just a mere stock or share.

For specific items, you can always ask at the Value Thread.

Don't know what the difference is between the different X-metal orbital sizes are? No problemo! Check out @supersharp's excellent size comparison pictures.

You won't need it here, but there's a truckload of abbreviations used by OF veterans to describe lenses, each other and the condition of their sunglasses. If you're lost, check out @mercbezerk's exhaustive and definitive list of Abbreviations .

How to Use This Guide:-
Range for each pair is given relative to a normal pair of Juliets (which is the most commonly available X-metal). @Kronin has documented that relative values remain the same, but the actual dollar values will change based on seasons etc.

So, if you think a Juliet is worth $100, then a copper Penny is worth about $400 (which is 4.0 X $100) etc.

The lower price would be what I think is a reasonable buying price that favours the buyer. The upper price, a reasonable selling price that favours the seller.

Some items USUALLY have the box. If this is the case, price will be specified WITH box.

See footnotes for suggested “adjustments” to price.

If you feel that something else significantly would affect pricing, feel free to correct me by leaving criticism, a comment or a snide remark if you think I’ve missed the mark. Please explain why, as I am a logical person, and would like this guide to be as helpful as possible.

Best regards for the coming year!
Yi-An


X-Metal LIST
(9/10 condition overall without box shipped to CONUSA (in USD and by PayPal G & S)

HALF-X - 0.6-1.0. They are lower priced because of the "Hinge problem" and because there IS no nose hinge like the other X-metals!! That's why they're called a "half" X rather than a "full" X!!

JULIET (carbon, carbon polished, Ti02, X-metal) - 1.0
Blue - ??
Blue-Green - ??
Brown - 3.2-4.8 (List of owners)
Corvette - 2.0-2.4 (List of owners)
Ducati (carbon frame) - 1.6-1.8 (thanks to O-Bro @Cdgann for reminding me to include these!!)
Ducati (X-metal frame) - 2.1-2.2
Finito - 2.0-2.8 (List of owners)
Ichiro - 2.4-4.4 (with box)
Infinite Hero - 1.8-2.0 (lenses and rubbers huge part of value)
Purple - ??
X-metal with deep ruby/purple lenses (variable colouring). Has X serial number (5000 pieces) - 1.6-2.4
24k (750 numbered pairs only, including box) - 5.6-6.4 (list of owners)
24k sample (no box) - 3.6-4.8. Gold Coin alone can be over $200.

MARS
Normal (no perforations in orbitals) - 1.6-2.0
Craters - 1.8-2.2
Jordans - 2.4-3.2

PENNY
Copper - 4.0-4.8
Polished - 1.0-1.3
Titanium - 1.0-1.2
X-metal - 1.6-1.8

ROMEO 1 - 2.4-2.8 (finish and lenses can affect prices in a big way). Please note that there are only Black, Gold and Fire Iridium lenses ie. there are NO polarized lenses.
Jordan - 3.2-3.7 P.S. For the inside story, as per @onz check here! Here is the list of owners
Jordan with supersize box (first 100 (corrected @Jmgarcia)) - ??> 12.0 (for super low productions, very difficult to estimate. They sell for what they sell for). Recently #002 and #025 got sold, but who knows how much they sold for?)
Ti - 2.0-2.6
Plasma - 2.6-2.8 (most desirable)
X-metal - 2.2-2.6

ROMEO 2 - 1.1-1.4 (finish and lenses can affect prices in a big way)
1.4-1.6 for complete with box and mint.
Plasma
Polished
Titanium
X-Metal
Romeo 2 coins - 0.4-0.52

X—SQUARED - 1.2-1.8
Custom Black (stealth) - 1.8-2.0
Carbon - 1.2-1.4
Ducati - 1.6-2.0
Plasma - 1.4-1.6
Polished - 1.5-1.7
Polished Carbon - 1.5-1.6
"Unicorn" - 1.8-2.0. What is it? Check it out here.
X-metal - 1.5-1.7
24k (750 numbered pairs only complete with box) - 5.6-6.4 (list of owners)
24k sample - 2.8-4.4 without box (thanks @Dallas O Hog)

XX - 1.3-2.8
Plasma - 3.2-3.6 (most desirable)
TiO2 - 1.6-1.8
X-metal - 1.4-1.6 (@Litos)
24K - 1.4-1.8

Suggested prices for Beaters (2017) (thanks to @X-Metal Beast)
Beater regular stem Juliet - 0.6-0.8
Beater polished (haammerstem) Juliet - 0.7-0.9
Beater regular Mars - 0.8
Beater Crater - 1.2
Beater Mars Jordan - 1.4-1.6
Beater XX, XS - 0.8-1.2
Beater R1 - 1.3-1.6

ALLEGED “X-METALS”:-

BADMAN - 0.52-0.6 (usually boxed)
Badman Ferrari (corrected @onz) - 0.6-0.68 (usually boxed)

MADMAN - 0.48-0.56 (usually boxed)
Madman Ferrari (corrected @onz) - 0.6-0.72 (usually boxed)
Madman RAW (150 numbered pairs only (corrected @supersharp)) - 4.0-5.6 (usually boxed)

Information About Serial Numbers and SKUs
As per @discostu... X Metals up to 2004 had a serial number. From here until 2009 frames had no markings and from there to the end of production - approx 2012 they were given an SKU number.


@Rustpot 's CARDINAL RULES FOR SELLING ON THE INTERNET
#1 Price high, expect lowballs, negotiate down to your real number
#2 If you priced it low to move it fast, expect the same treatment as if you posted full price
#3 Everything you put in your ad will need to be repeated
#4 It's not sold until you have the cash
#5 Honour your word and sell to whoever shows up to pay asking price if you've committed to a deal



FOOTNOTES:-
After taking into account the below footnotes, suggested minimum price should always be at least 50% of the values quoted above.

Brand New in Box? Add 25% premium
Box + Coin? - Add 0.2-0.48 (depending on whether limited edition)
Lenses trashed? - minus 0.2-0.4 unless limited edition (can pay up to 1.0!!). Affects pricing more than a damaged frame.
Has Dillon Lenses? Add 1.0
Frame poorer quality? - minus 10% for every point below 9/10 to a maximum of 35%
If one hasn’t been seen for 3 months and you want it - Add 0.2 or 15% (whichever is greater)
Missing piece which completes your set/collection - Add 0.4 or 10% (whichever is greater)
Needs a tune, but you can do it yourself? Subtract 0.14
Needs a tune, but you have to send it away? Subtract 0.32
Needs refinishing? Add $80 (price of refinish probably is reflected more by overall condition than coating per se). P.S. Some guys take longer than others.
Want Cerakote? Add $80
Copper electroplated? Add $120
Found on eBay? - expect to add 20-30% to cost (but sometimes you can find bargains)
Found on Craigslist? - Subtract 10% (often you will find bargains)
Overpaid initially for your x-metal? Calculate difference between upper guideline price and price you paid. Halve that number and add to upper guideline price. Start from there! GLWS!!! (@Medusa50)
You’re a stingy buyer? - Subtract 30% (but you probably won't be buying too many this next year)
You are an impulsive buyer? - Add 30% (start looking for a new triple wide case)
You’re a profiteer? - Add 15%


EXTRA FOOTNOTES:-
You’re a scammer? - Simply describe product better than it really is.
Have a wife? - Pay in cash wherever you can. If not, subtract 10% if you’re the buyer so you can say you got a good deal.
@Kronin23 's method - Forget above information. Contact @dingo ate my baby for price. Add $50.
Are you @OakleyFrankFMJ? Buy price $27,000. No sell price.
@SiRacer420 second-hand O socks? Buy price is minus $200 (ie. he pays you to take socks due to cost of biohazard disposal with incineration)


BACK STORY
Who gives a flying turd about the back story? Well, that’s why this paragraph is after the good stuff.

As a newbie, one doesn’t know the relative worth of x-metals. You don’t know that a half X is worth less than a Romeo 1. Or that a beat up Mars Jordan can fetch higher prices than a mint looking Juliet with aftermarket lenses and rubbers with the wrong box. It literally takes years to get a “feel” for what an X-metal is possibly worth. It’s more critical for most people because usually, X-metals are the most expensive part of one’s collection.

Checking the x-metal exchange forum obviously was the first place I went to.

But I found it nearly useless, because most sellers, replace the price with something like $OLD or delete the price altogether once they sell their item. I’m told they do this to protect the buyer, but I suspect it’s also to protect future pricing requests. After all, who wants to have a buyer writing to you, “Hey, this was sold 2 years ago for $XXXX and now you’re asking $XXXX + $YYYY?” (I’ll admit, I’ve adopted the convention myself).

I PMed a few people for the price of items that they either bought or sold, and while, in the main, they often obliged with a ballpark figure, it does waste their time and you’re using up “demerit points” because you’re asking them a favour. Also you risk having people tell you to “Rack off” and that’s always unpleasant particularly if you’re a greenhorn.

Of course, there's the "Value Thread". For specific items that you get a genuine answer for, it's absolutely brilliant. But there were some drawbacks, which I hope this post may help address. I found difficult to navigate the prices because eggs weren't being compared to eggs. Also, not all the requests for help were answered. And occasionally, there is deliberate lowballing which makes it difficult to determine what the truth is, particularly for newbies.

So I thought I’d write to a few of the people I knew were “regulars” and also those who I respect and ask their advice for this guide.

Thank you for your help.

Excellent help topic for those who need to sell and buy and have no idea of the value of the rare models.
Good job..Congrats..